What is a varietal wine?

Varietal wines are made from a single grape variety, which is mentioned on the label. Since the 2000s, varietal wines have enjoyed real success with consumers, offering an easier approach to tasting for the neophyte. However, some professionals and enthusiasts are highly critical of these wines, which they feel are modelled on "new world" products and deprived of their territorial origin, in other words, their famous terroir.

Appearance of the term "varietal wine" in France

It was in the 1980s that this new term was coined to describe certain wines made from a single grape variety, but whose grapes have different geographical origins, generally vins de pays (now IGP wines).

The creation of this new category was initiated by wine professionals. Their demand stemmed from the observation of the growing international success of wines organized according to grape variety rather than place of production, more in line with contemporary demand and consumption.

A new step was taken when the European Parliament authorized vins de France (formerly vin de table) to mention grape variety and vintage on their labels. These regulations are designed to help European wines adapt to international markets.

Are varietal and terroir wines really two distinct categories?

One might think that the two categories are mutually exclusive, as a varietal wine cannot claim to be a terroir wine, and vice versa. However, the reality of winegrowing is far more complex than this simple distinction.

When we look at French and European wine production, we see that there are many appellations that claim to have both terroir and grape variety. The most famous case is that of the Burgundy region, which has built its reputation on its terroirs and its two grape varieties: Pinot noir and Chardonnay. But the most telling example is Alsace, where all the appellations d'origine are structured around and named after grape varieties.

These two examples show that terroir and grape variety can work together to produce quality wines with identity. The question to ask is whether grape variety or terroir should be at the service of the other